We
Hiked
Half Dome!
Oh man what an amazing day!
Let me start by saying I had a lot of fear before I started this hike, but once we got started, the fear was gone. Also, I really never expected to make it up the cables, and even John had his doubts for me, but I did it. Rated extremely strenuous, it’s a 16 mile hike with a 5000 foot elevation change.
Also, John woke up with his sciatic nerve bothering him pretty badly. He almost couldn’t stand up. He chose to try to walk it off. I believe that God definitely had a hand in our hike all day long.
Up and out the door of the tent cabin by 4:20 a.m., we hiked for about 40 minutes with just a flashlight to the trail head and up a ways. By 5:00 a.m., the light was off.
The beginning of the hike was relatively easy. It was a wide, paved path with a bit of an incline. We could see the river to our right, and there was some amazing white water as we ascended. We could hear the roar of a freight train as we hiked. Finally, after about 2 miles, we made it to the bridge at the bottom of Vernal Falls. That’s the first waterfall. There was an Austrailan group who caught us about that point, and we talked for a bit. It was a man and 3 women. He was obviously raring to go and the women, like me, wanted to take a slower steady pace. We ended up leap-frogging them all the way up to the top and back down. We beat them though :)
Suddenly we got to the steep stairs. According to the website, there are 600 of these, with switch backs. There were places I had to use my walking stick to just get up the step. John insisted that I go in front of him. He wanted to stay with me and watch out for me.
Eventually we got to the top of Vernal Falls. It was so powerful! The water was churning and bouncing as it fell off the cliff. Onward we hiked. We hiked another steep part and an hour or so later made it to Nevada Falls. This waterfall sounds like a jet engine. There is a dip behind the water and it just gleams in the sunlight. Steep steps took us to the top of Nevada Falls. Yes I had to stop to take pictures but so far, I felt very blessed to be doing as well as I was. A year ago, I would not have made it to the top of these waterfalls.
The top of Nevada falls is about 2.5 miles from the trail head, and 3.5 miles from our tent cabin. We were only about a thrid of the way to the top. The next part of the trail takes you up the Little Yosemite valley, through trees, next to the Merced river which forms the waterfalls. John and I each took two liters of water with us and a water filter. There are 4 miles of this part of the trail. It went up steadily but it was less strenuous. We stopped at a fork in the path at the last place to get water, and refilled our bottles. I was almost empty. The water in the river is so clear you can see the bottom at any point. I watched a fish swim around where John was working, but every time I pulled up my camera it ducked behind some weeds. Camera shy, I guess.
We saw a deer beside the path, and we saw 3 little turkey chicks. What are turkey babies called anyway? Chicks? They were following momma, who was out of view. John caught a glimpse of the momma. Most of our hike had been in the shade. We thought we saw Half Dome nearby and it gave us hope, but we kept hiking for a long time.
Eventually we made it to the steep stairs again, and after struggling up those, we arrived at a shady spot with a lot of people resting, and one announced to me, “Welcome to Sub Dome!” Okay! I didn’t know there would be a Sub Dome but it sounded important! John showed the Ranger there our permit and his ID. I hadn’t brought my ID but she let us go anyway.
There was a group gathering there at who all seemed to be together. One man who I was sitting next to, had yellow feathers sticking out of the top of his backpack. He was feeling very nervous, and was thinking he was not going to be able to make it any further. I found out later the woman he was talking to was Nadine. She was encouraging him to do what he needed to do, but also motivating him to go on if he could. I told him, my plan is to just go until I can’t, then stop. He continued on.
Now the hard part. Steep stairs, yes more of them, but no shade, and it’s already 11:30. We had hiked about 8 miles already, and it was hot. I was taking a break about every 50 steps. I told John he should go ahead and go up the cables and I would try to meet him there. He insisted on walking with me.
Suddenly from out of no where we were at the cables. Holy cow! The people looked like little ants and I was right there! John bribed me with M&M’s to continue. Now, realize that I’m on Atkins, so an M&M is a big deal. I had brought my kayaking gloves with the fingers cut out, but John hadn’t brought any. Luckily there was a pile of discarded gloves that he could choose from and he grabbed a mis-matched set of ratty old gloves. It is a good thing he did. By this time it was about noon. We went for it.
Now imagine a set of movie theater ropes that cordon off an area - not the soft squishy kind but made of metal cable. Not chain. There were two sets of these about three feet apart, and at almost every set of poles there is a 2X4 across the bottom of the poles. The incline of the rock is between 45 and 60 degrees. You have to pull yourself up with hands and feet from pole to pole. I was doing okay, but the strain in my arms started to get to me. That is also the part that was the most steep. I started feeling nauseous, dizzy and thought I might pass out. I turned and sat down on the rock and held on for dear life. I told John I didn’t think I could make it. John told me that there were only 3 more really steep sets like that and that it would get easier. He was one set ahead of me the whole way up. I drank some water, fully aware that I was holding up the whole line. See, there is only one way up and one way down that mountain. You can’t go any faster than the person ahead of you and if someone is coming down, you have to move to the right at a pole and hang on while they pass you in this narrow space.
John gave the courage to continue. It was really hard! But, it did get easier. There was a woman there named Nadine Flowers (Joy Camp). She and her group were all cheering me on It was so amazing to have so much support. I would not have made it if it hadn’t been for John.
At the top we felt like were were at the top of the world! There was a 360 degree view of the entire Yosemite area. We took pictures, we ate our cheese, nuts and M&M’s, explored the top a bit. I have learned that John is a lot like my daughter Becky, in that they both never met a stranger. He can talk easily to anyone. Me, I just offer to take people’s pictures as a group for them. It was a real celebration at the top. The guy with the feathers in his backpack made it up to the top. He took the feathers out and it was an Indian headdress!! He put it on, and I took his picture for him sitting at the end of the peak. Awesome!
Finally we headed back down. Going down the cables was a whole lot easier. We tried going forward but John tried it backwards and got me to try it too. It was even easier that way. It was a lot like going down a 600 foot ladder with no rungs. There were occassionally steep steps in the granite, and John warned me ahead of time. I was so honored that there were people cheering me on the whole way. Nadine kept encouraging me and telling me I was doing great.
Now, mind you, John could have scampered up and down those cables. He had a great time on them. We both were still (amazingly) feeling pretty good. He would go up or down a pole or two and then wait for me. He was right there for me the entire time.
Going down Sub Dome we came across a family hiking up. There was a young girl in tears because she was scared and tired. I stopped and talked with her for a moment, and encouraged her. I told her the same thing I had told the guy with the headdress - if I can do it, she could, and just take one step at a time, and go as far as you can go. Later in the day almost at the bottom we ran into her again. She was happy and had made it all the way! She was very proud of herself and thanked us for our help. John asked her if it was worth it, and she hesitated. He then asked her if she felt good about doing it, and if she was proud that she made it and she grinned and said yes.
As we descended, we found it harder on our joints but easier on cardio. Down was painful. Up was just tiring. We refilled our water at the same place - just in time. A half hour earlier I had finished my last drop.
A snake crossed the path right in front of John. I think it was a racer of some kind, not sure.
At the top of Nevada falls, there is an opportunity to take a much easier but 1.5 mile longer trail called the John Muir trail. We had come up the Mist Trail. We debated for a while, and finally decided on the Mist trail so that I could enjoy the waterfalls. I will say that the last 3 miles were brutal. We were off the mountain by 8:30. 16 hours.
We took showers, and I hit the bed. I could not move. Could not. John went in search of food and I passed out. What a day.
Thank you God for giving us this beautiful place. Epic day!
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